Optima Red or Yellow?

L

Larry Frankenstein

Well-known member
Should I go with a red or a yellow? I know there is a difference, but don’t recall exactly what it is right now. Your experiences and/or knowledge appreciated.

Thank you,
L
 
No alternator yellow top.
Alternator Red top.

Yellow top is deep cycle it has a lower resistance. It can be drained deeper but can be damaged by to high charging current.

Red top can supply higher current for a short time for hard to start engines. It does not like to be deeply discharged and can be damaged by doing so.
 
According to Jerry I apparently bought the wrong one, and it was a while ago so I don't know what reasoning I used to choose the red one - maybe they didn't have any yellow ones? - but it has worked fine for at least three years now on a total loss system so it isn't a black or white decision.
 
It is like the pirate code, more like guide lines.

And you should know that what we do is a combination of science and art with a little FM thrown in.
 
Batteries Plus has the best price on Optima batteries in our area, you might want to check to see if they have a store in your area.
I went there to buy an Optima for my race car and ended up buying a "glass mat" battery with a five year free replacement warranty instead. The Optima only had a three year free replacement warranty.
 
I've had two Red Tops go junk, completely refusing to take a charge, after being fully drained. Literally had to throw them away.

My yellows have been good for 5+ years...

The yellows are another 20lbs heavier than red.

-M
 
My brother has successfully revived more than a few "dead" Optima red top batteries using the method described in this link.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/517984-how-recharge-deeply-discharged-optima-battery.html
I have one of them that's from 2002 that I use every day without any issues.
I wouldn't trust it in my racecar but it works great in my forklift!
 
Ok, here is what I’ve got, and a question or 2.

I will be running an alternator (small 35 amp)

Red
More hot cranking power (not necessarily CCA – right?), can supply higher current for a short time for hard to start engines. (this usually applies to my car).

Does not like to be deeply discharged and can be damaged by doing so.

Yellow
Deep cycle – better choice in a car without an alternator.

Can be damaged by too high charging current? Define too high charging current.

20 lbs heavier than Red (I can live with this – battery is in the front, engine and most weight in the rear.).

More vibration resistance (hopefully I don’t need this, but won’t hurt. I’ll probably switch to this in our off road car which has run a lot of miles with a red. Would like to be able to swap batteries between the 2 cars. Budgetary consideration.)

Thank you,
L
 
Yellow top
Recommended Charging Information:

Alternator: 13.65 to 15.0 volts

Battery Charger (Constant Voltage): 13.8 to 15.0 volts; 10 amps maximum; 6-12 hours approximate

Float Charge: 13.2 to 13.8 volts; 1 amp maximum; (indefinite time at lower voltages)

Rapid Recharge: (Constant voltage charger) Maximum voltage 15.6 volts. No current limit as long as battery temperature remains below 125°F (51.7°C). Charge until
current drops below 1 amp.

Cyclic or Series String Applications: 14.7 volts. No current limit as long as battery temperature
remains below 125°F (51.7°C). When current falls below 1 amp, finish with 3 amp constant current for 1 hour.


All limits must be strictly adhered to.
 
Matt Brannon said:
I've had two Red Tops go junk, completely refusing to take a charge, after being fully drained. Literally had to throw them away.

-M
Click to expand...

+1, me too... mine still sitting in corner, so i'll try that other process...
 
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